BLOG | My Macedonian Traverse, a mountain pathway

The Macedonian Traverse is a hiking trail through the mountains of Western Macedonia. It runs from mountain hut Ljuboten to Crvena Voda or Ohrid if you don’t mind a road hike at the end. Some see it as an extension of the Via Dinarica or promote it like that, but the Macedonian Traverse has an history of its own. In 1975 a bunch of Macedonian mountaineers set the trail as the “First Macedonian Traverse” or “Prva Makedonska Transverzala”. There’s a documentary of their undertaking where…Continue Reading “The Macedonian Traverse, a mountain pathway”

BLOG | Exploring Sharr Mountain

Sharr mountain (Shara, Šar, Shar, Sharri) has been on my list for years. Ever since I first read about the First Macedonian Transversal (Transferzala), a hiking trail that crosses the entire Sharr mountain range, I had the wish to explore Sharr mountain. I could try to describe what it looks like, but I suck at that. I don’t have the vocabulary and the words I make up probably won’t be much of a help. I’ll stick to sharing my personal experience and add a whole…Continue Reading “Exploring Sharr Mountain”

BLOG | Pretty Prizren

First time I was in Prizren I wrote this:  Prizren is definitely worth a visit. It’s a beautiful, old, vivacious town with mountains all around. I’ll definitely come back to be a real tourist, but for now hiking is on my mind. Second time was not even a month later, two weeks maybe. Rosa and I left the Macedonian Mountain Traverse due to bad weather. Better to hide in a city. Totally unplanned and thus again totally unprepared. I still suck at being a tourist tourist…Continue Reading “Pretty Prizren”

BLOG | Via Dinarica in Kosovo

The Via Dinarica in Kosovo is an extension of the Via Dinarica White Trail that ends in Valbona, Albania. When I hiked the White Trail two years ago I had no idea about this Kosovo part, maybe it didn’t even exist yet. I don’t know. What I do know now is that it’s a super beautiful route that is definitely worth to include into your Via Dinarica journey. The trail is divided in seven stages. There are heaps of springs, streams and lakes and at…Continue Reading “Via Dinarica in Kosovo”

BLOG | BEARS ON THE ROAD

Close to, or right underneath Rusolia mountain my eye caught two fluffy creatures. I held my breath. Oh my! Bears. I almost bumped into two bears. They were too busy playing with each other to notice me. Quickly I looked around to see where the mother was. Maybe one of them wás the mother, but they both looked small. Slowly I walked a bit backwards, started to talk and made some (not too disturbing) sounds. Nothing happened, they kept on playing. What to do? I…Continue Reading “Bears on the road”

BLOG | Via Dinarica Green Trail in Serbia

The Via Dinarica Green Trail in Serbia goes through the lower mountains north of the White Trail. Those lower mountains often look like hills, peaks aren’t as prominent as in Durmitor for example (or Prokletije!), but on the other hand the route often stays around the 1000 meter above sea level. In those “hills” there are many farms, villages and weekend houses, vikendica. Therefore the Green Trail in a way is much more alive. The rural regions between National Parks sometimes feel like a part…Continue Reading “Via Dinarica Green Trail in Serbia”

BLOG | Connecting the Dots, hiking in Tara National Park

Nobody said it would be easy, but I’m not looking for easy. I wanted to hike from Višegrad to Tara National Park, to the Serbian Via Dinarica Green Trail; Veliki Stolac, without making a detour on the road. Hiking beyond borders is one thing, hiking beyond overgrown border is another. My plan was to find a a route, a green line. I tried my best connecting the dots. Note that you officially have to go to the border-crossing-office, because since there’s no agreement (yet) for…Continue Reading “Crossborder hike from Višegrad to Tara National Park”

BLOG | Worst night ever

I’m in my tent. Camping at a wonderful place next to a church in the middle of a forest. There are picnic tables, there’s water and a lot of grass. In two months there will be a guesthouse as well, but for now that building is an unfinished building. They’re working on it though. I met the guys in charge earlier, they gave me permission to put up my tent here. No idea how long I slept, but it can’t be more than 3 hours….Continue Reading “Worst night ever”

BLOG | Mud and Mist on the Jahorina Trailrun Track | Romanija mountain BOSNIA AND HERZEGONIA

In an optimistic summer-holiday-mood I got off the bus in Sarajevo. Okay, there were some thunderstorms on the road and okay, the weather forecast showed rain, rain and rain, but because of the super sunny summer weather in The Netherlands I simply couldn’t believe it would really get that bad. I had prepared myself for intense heat, packed a thick tube of sunscreen, but instead of a mercilessly fierce shining sun, I got mud and mist on the Jahorina trail run track. Jep, I’m hiking…Continue Reading “Hiking the Jahorina Trail Run Track from Sarajevo to Višegrad”

BLOG | How a relatively simple bus ride from Zagreb to Knin turned into a scandal

Although it’s very efficient to send your packages by bus instead of using the regular post service, travelling by bus can be challenging in Croatia. To avoid a long, complicated (maybe impossible) bus ride from Zagreb to Buško jezero, I decided to start hiking in Knin. I wanted to cross Dinara, Troglav and Kamešnica all the way through the mountains. The difficult logistics with public transport are more or less part of the adventure, but I would deal with that on my way back, I…Continue Reading “How a simple bus ride from Zagreb to Knin turned into a scandal”

BLOG | Caught in a Dream

“I’ll let you part of my dream, if I can be part of yours” Bob Dylan said that “I’ll let you part of my dream, if I can be part of your reality” I said that ~ Sophie Hunger, Sophie Hunger Blues   Caught in a dream I walk the streets. Caught in a dream. Zovem se Eva, ja sam iz Nizozemske, iz Amsterdama. Živim u Zagrebu. I walk. The wind blows. It’s spring. Sada je proljeće, but the winter is still here. Zagreb is…Continue Reading “Caught in a dream”

BLOG | What it's all about, let me explain

“Eva, what is your website about?” Isn’t that obvious? I would say. Apparently it isn’t. The more I think of it, the more I realize that perhaps it’s hard to get indeed. To get what it’s ALL about. Because I don’t know neither. A personal blog, a life and adventure journal. Inspired by Via Dinarica, I started to explore. It’s shows a journey. The journey of me, following my path. Step by step. One step at the time. Sometimes I can hardly see the path,…Continue Reading “What it’s all about, let me explain”

BLOG | a Bikeride from Sarajevo to the Croatian Coast

At the end of the month I like to look back on what I’ve done and where I’ve been. On how I felt and what was on my mind. It turned out that my Instagram pictures actually give a pretty good impression. So, I decided to put them together in a blog post. Here’s November where I stayed two weeks in Sarajevo before I took my bike for a ride to the Croatian coast. An exciting month full of social stuff, warm showers, blue skies and new…Continue Reading “a Bikeride from Sarajevo to the Croatian Coast”

BLOG | In the middle of a thought

It’s a way of living. I choose to do so. I live on the road. I choose the Dinarides to do so. I’m on my way. There’s no conclusion, I’m rather in the middle of a thought. “What is your message?” a friend asked. “I don’t know.” There are loads of things I want to say, stories I want to tell, thoughts I want to share, places I want to show. But a message? It would be good if I had one. One clear message….Continue Reading “In the middle of a thought”

BLOG | From Amsterdam to Sarajevo ON FOOT

The 24th of March I left Amsterdam to hike for a while. “Walking back to the Balkans”. Why? Because I can, because I like hiking. Because it’s slow, because it’s a perfect way to really see a country. To feel and experience. Because I feel good, being “on the road”. And because I thought it would be a good idea to (re)discover my own country, before heading off to the Balkans. So, I walked. I walked back. From Amsterdam to Sarajevo, on foot. In this…Continue Reading “From Amsterdam to Sarajevo ON FOOT”

BLOG | An Indian Summer

“Up and down, hiking in BiH, it’s a rollercoaster of impressions and emotions, I can hardly keep up with them. But when the ride is over, you want to stay for the next round.” I wrote that about a year ago and it is still true. I’m happy to scroll through my photos and see so many nice places I want to share, I can hardly choose. But I would like to show not only the shiny Instagrammable moments, I use Instagram to show my…Continue Reading “From Indian Summer to snowy Sarajevo”

BLOG | Hiking in Una National Park | TRAILNOTES Via Dinarica Green Trail in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Visit When I was hiking in Una National Park (September 2017), the Via Dinarica Green Trail in Bosnia and Herzegovina did not really exist yet. I roughly had an idea of the route I wanted to follow from Bihać to Sarajevo, but couldn’t get much information about an actual trail. When I write this post (May 2019) the Green Trail still isn’t officially there, however, all stages that are completed will be automatically available on trail.viadinarica.com. The Via Dinarica Green Trail is an hiking and/or biking trail in…Continue Reading “Hiking in Una National Park”

BLOG | GREEN trail it is

Super super green hiking trail through Croatia. From the Slovenian border to the Bosnian border. Most well known National Park on the trail is Plitvice, but my favourite part of the trail are the forests of Gorski Kotar. This tour is part of my hike from Amsterdam to Sarajevo in 2017.  Complete list with day stages: Walking from Amsterdam to Sarajevo. Border crossing Croatia. I can’t believe it. I have to say it out loud. “I walked from Amsterdam all the way to Croatia.” And repeat…Continue Reading “GREEN trail it is, crossing Croatia”

BLOG | Why I Hike

“And why? Why do you hike?” That’s what people ask me after they heard me out about where I started, where I’m heading to, how many kilometres a day and how heavy my backpack is. Why I hike? “Why not?” Yeah, why not? If I don’t like it anymore, I can stop. So, I hike because I want to. Because I like it. But is that really the answer? Why do I híke? Why am I hiking hére? And why do I hike the way…Continue Reading “​Why I hike”

BLOG | RED TRAIL IT IS

In August 2017 I hiked the Via Alpina in Italy as part of my thru hike from Amsterdam to Sarajevo. On the Via Alpina I kept on crossing borders. Italy, Austria, Italy, Austria. The trail follows the mountains and well, nature does not know borders. Borders are often formed by nature, but I could hardly see the differences. So, I “filed” this part under “Italy”, but parts of this stage were in Austria. Via Alpina in Italy Pfunderer Höhenweg Today I took a “shortcut”, instead…Continue Reading “RED trail it is, hiking the Via Alpina in Italy”

BLOG | Traversing the Austrian Alps on the Via Alpina

For some reason I had the idea to pick up the Via Alpina in Feldkirch. Probably because I thought I would be hiking on the Suisse side of the Bodensee. I did, until Konstanz, where I took the ferry. That ferry brought me in 4 hours in Bregenz. It would have been more convenient to head towards Obertsdorf, but Feldkirch was still in my head, without giving it a second thought, I went to Feldkirch where I started hiking the Via Alpina in Austria. The…Continue Reading “Traversing the Austrian Alps on the Via Alpina”

BLOG | Puzzeling my way through Germany: Facts & Stats

My way through Germany: 820 Kilometres, 3 rest days, 32 hiking days, 1 homestay, 7 garden camps, 4 nights on a campsite and 1 on a climbers bivouac. The latter means: pay 3 euro for the tent and figure out yourself where to wash or how to do the dishes, oh and the toilet is that wooden hut in the forest. Blehh, spiders! As a result, all climbers gather in the restaurant for a beer and the restroom. A break in the middle I had…Continue Reading “​Puzzeling my way through Germany”

BLOG | Hiking through Hilly Luxembourg

The last night that I camped in Belgium, I didn’t pay enough attention. I just put up my tent on a sort of flat field and went to bed. Next morning I noticed a strong smell. Cow shit. Shit, that field had been sprinkled (fertilized?) probably the day before. How could I have missed that? Smelly & Hilly Luxembourg Not only my tent, but also everything that was in there, so e-ve-ry-thing I carried with me, smelled shitty. This is how my hike through Luxembourg…Continue Reading “Hilly Luxembourg”

BLOG | ​Walking through Wallonia

After finishing the Pilgrim’s route through the Netherlands, I switched to the GR57, a long distance hiking trail through the Ardennes in Belgium. The Wallonian part of Belgium to be more precise. I had been in the Ardennes before. Many many times. And I even hiked several parts of this particular trail, but that doesn’t make the Ardennes boring. Not at all. Walking through Wallonia Walking through Wallonia. It’s much wilder than the Netherlands. With its green hills and rocky rivers it’s a real outdoor…Continue Reading “​Walking through Wallonia”

BLOG | A Pilgrimage Through The Netherlands

My pilgrimage through The Netherlands: 500 kilometres, 4 non-hiking- and 23 hiking-days of which 3 were rainy. I crossed 4 provinces (5 if the I count the small part of Flanders in Belgium as well), took 4 ferries, had 5 friends coming over to join me for a day or two, 0 spiders in my tent, saw 2 deers (females), 1 squirrel and 5 lama’s. I slept 8 nights in a bed, paid a visit to 4 friends in Brabant and spend 2 nights at…Continue Reading “A pilgrimage through the Netherlands”