The Via Dinarica in Kosovo is an extension of the Via Dinarica White Trail. When I hiked the White Trail two years ago I had no idea about this Kosovo part, maybe it didn’t even exist yet. I don’t know. What I do know now is that its a super beautiful route that is definetely worth to include.
Continue Reading "TRAILNOTES: Via Dinarica in Kosovo"
It’s 00.27 my backpack is packed, GPS is up to date, launched my podcast and after this blog post I’m ready too. Ready for a little hike. Tomorrow I take the bus to Knin from where I hit the trail to Dinara. Gone hiking. Although I hiked across the entire Dinaric Alps, I haven’t been on Dinara yet. Or well, I was on the mountain, but not on the peak. A peak, the peak. Something to do with bad weather. I Thought it would be a nice way to open this years hiking season. Hiking Dinara. And when already I’m there, I might as well continue on the trail to Troglav and Kamešnica.
Continue Reading "Gone hiking. Dinara, here I come! (+ my first podcast)"
Last summer I walked a new long distance trail through the Balkans, the Via Dinarica White Trail. A route that finds its way along countless different mountain ranges, ridges, cliffs, canyons, valleys, rivers, lakes and prominent peaks in the Dinaric Alps, Europe’s largest karst field. Hiking Via Dinarica. A great hike, a beautiful journey and an unforgettable adventure.
Continue Reading "Hiking Via Dinarica, crossing the Balkans on foot"
After I hiked more than 1200K through 4 different countries and added another 300K in Slovenia. The original Via Dinarica White Trail follows the Javorniki mountain range from Snežnik to Postojna. Although the forest up there is one of a kind, I decided to spend a bit more time in Slovenia, made a detour and set out an more ˝scenic route˝ through the beautiful Green Karst landscape. The last part of my Via Dinarica journey started in Ilirska Bistrica from where I headed back into the mountains, to Mašun, Sviščakih and Snežnik. I was blessed with fantastic weather. Cold, sunny and colorful. Autumn at its best.
Continue Reading "Slovenia’s Secrets: Green Karst"
“Eva, do you want to come to the Polhanje tonight?” Uhhh, for a second I’m confused. Polh, is that
Continue Reading "Dormouse for dinner"
The Via Dinarica is a trail that is still in progress, only in Bosnia and Herzegovina the White Trail is officially open. In the other four countries the route is a combination of old existing trails that all together form a corridor through the Dinarides. With a distance of almost 600 kilometers, the Croatian section covers the largest part of the Via Dinarica. An absolutely beautiful stretch through the incredible Croatian karst mountains.
Continue Reading "Incredible Croatian Karst"
“I’m on my way to Slovenia. Hitchhiking the last bit, it’s raining cats and dogs…” Jep, I’m cheating. Either I had to walk 80km
Continue Reading "The third option…"
My mind is somewhere else, I’m daydreaming, not thinking of anything at all. An easy hike on a forest road and then suddenly there is something brown, something big coming out of the bushes. O o. It steps right in front of me on my path.
Continue Reading "Whaaah, I just saw a bear!"
Velika Kapela. This part is something special. You’re just a little ride away from the coast and even closer to the mountains. In between there are hills, forests and small villages.
Continue Reading "Another day on the road"
Avoiding the bad parts of the trail sounded like an easy way out. Cheating maybe. Skip the “not ready to hike yet” sections and continue with the nice parts…
Now I’m finished with the Croatian part of the Via Dinarica White Trail and looking back on the (almost) two months I spend in this beautiful country, I realize that Velebit made a huge impression in me. I can’t really explain why, so that’s why I will make a photo essay before I try to write about it…
Continue Reading "Velebitski Planinarski Put"
“No way! That can’t be…” There was a couple hiking towards me that looked exactly like Sean and Lois. “Ohhh, it would be great to see them again” and I
Continue Reading "HikeVibes! "
“What is Ivine Vodice like?”
“Well, it is not as beautiful as this place”, the guy said while pointing at planinarsko sklonište Struge.
“Let’s say it is dirty, really dirty. But you’ll survive.”
“Great.” I looked at Caroline and saw a worried look in her eyes. Struge is a great place, but beautiful is a big word.
I’m almost back in track. After a week not hiking, just hitchhiking, I looked forward to go up into the mountains again. “But it will rain on Monday.” “I don’t care, rain is not my worst enemy. I’m from The Netherlands..”
Continue Reading "Bloody Bura"
Jeej, I got company! No, she is not really an hiker or outdoorsie type, but she is my oldest friend… Why is everybody asking? When are you a hiker? What is a real hiker? Are there any rules? Hmm, I think I actually don’t really care. After almost 900K of solo-hiking, my BFF Caroline joined me in Starigrad, super exiting. New company, new spirit, new challenges. New ADVENTURE. Paklenica, here we come!
Continue Reading "Hiking adventure: 4 Days in Paklenica NP"
I’m in Velebit in a sweet little shelter on a fantastic spot with white rocks pointing out of the forest all around me. Wooden wildlife keeps me company. Other than that, I’m all alone.
Continue Reading "Mali Princ"
“I’m free, I think. I shut my eyes and think hard and deep about how free I am, but I can’t really understand what it means. All I know is that I’m totally alone. All alone in an unfamiliar place, like some solitary explorer who’s lost his compass and his map. Is this what it means to be free? I don’t know, and I gave up thinking about it. – Haruki Murakami, Kafka on the Shore.
Continue Reading "What I talk about when I talk about Hiking"
I had a plan, I had maps, descriptions from other hikers and of course my GPS. It didn’t seem difficult to go to the top of Dinara, just a long “climb”. I had enough time, more than enough water and a plan that gave me the opportunity to spend an extra day on the mountain. Mountain Dinara. The only problem was that I was tired…
Continue Reading "Dinara, to climb or not to climb"
Although nature does not know borders, borders are often formed by nature. Mountains, rivers and seas are natural borders between different regions, countries or continents. Within these borders, people seem to develop their own characteristic way of living full of local traditions and old customs. Along the Via Dinarica I crossed many borders. Some were natural, some were cultural and some were just lines on a map. Lines that create countries. It did surprise me that hiking through Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH) felt so different from Montenegro. Different landscape, different mountain-rhythm, different weather and yes, different lives and lifestyles. I even got the impression that the way people express themselves differs from country to country.
I’m afraid of dogs as long as I can remember. Most of the time they just bark, I know that, but they still scare me. At night, when I’m camping near a village,
Continue Reading "Another “lud pas”"
Two months ago the opening of the White Trail was here in Blidinje nature park. And one year ago I was here as well, on my bike. It’s one of my favorite places. The immense valley with mountains
Continue Reading "Hello Blidinje"
“Bare in mind that you have still some challenging sections, particularly the descend from Prenj.” That was not the first time someone warned me for this part. Of course this became a big thing in my head. How difficult would it be? What if I can’t make it? What if I loose the trail again?
I felt nervous. It really took some time before I could enjoy the hiking.
Continue Reading "Descend from Prenj"
“Don’t miss Prenj!” I certainly didn’t want to, so I stayed as long as the weather forecast let me. Four days, yeahh!
Continue Reading "Prenj party"
Prenj is absolutely one of my favorites along the Via Dinarica White Trail. Not just because of its ridiculously beautiful vistas and views, mostly because Prenj was a place where I had a good dose of fun. With two guys from Tuzla who I met on Boračko campsite, I hiked from Boračko Jezero up to the mountain hut Jezerce. A great new hut on a fantastic location. Perfect place to spend the night. Or two. I really enjoyed the company of the Tuzla-boyz and the weather was extremely good. There was not really a reason to rush on, so I decided to join them on a day-hike to Zelena Glava and stay an extra night at PD Jezerce before I went further on my own.
Continue Reading "Planet Prenj"
I love to go back to places where I’ve already been. Mostly to visit people. Like Gaga in Buna who I met a year ago during my cycling trip from Amsterdam to Cetinje.
Sunday I was supposed to meet some friends from Sarajevo at Boračko Jezero. Rewinding time! Instead I got wind up in thorny plants when I tried to take a short cut. Lost on the Via Dinarica. This is my story about what happened on the descent through the Rakitnica Canyon.
Continue Reading "Lost on the Via Dinarica, short cut vs wild nature"
Many many wild plants were in my way. If I had known which I could eat, I perhaps would appreciate them more. I’m a city girl, but I’m getting more and more used to the wilderness. Still most of the time, the plants are in my way. Wilderness. Wild Balkans. Of course I also feel thankful that nature actually allows me here. When it’s wild and rough, completely overgrown it shows who is the boss. And that is absolutely not me!
Continue Reading "WILD BALKANS: nature versus mankind, what do they teach me?"
Tjentište is a little town with a big big hotel. People are obviously not coming here for the city sights, although the architecture is remarkable. It’s Sutjeska which is attracting people and Tjentište happens to be
Continue Reading "Thriving Tjentište"
Montenegro or Crna Gora in Serbian. I have to confess that I didn’t know where the name comes from, I only know that it means ˝Black Mountain˝. I didn’t really see black mountains though. The mountains of Montenegro were green. Everything was green. Green valleys, green peaks, green forests, green fields… Green, green, green in all possible shades and shapes.
Continue Reading "Magnificent Mountains of Montenegro"
After skipping Bobotov Kuk, I told myself to at least go up Maglić, Bosnia’s highest mountain. This peak is actually on the White Trail and it would be easy, according to the French Via Dinarica hiker, Matthieu. He said the view is absolutely worth it. So, this one should be on my list, I figured.
Continue Reading "Maglić, to climb or not to climb?"